The Patriotism of Survival
I will probably annoy a few people with this post – some of them industy colleagues and friends. But I was heartened and motivated by the comments made by James Hoffmann in response to a recent article in The Atlantic. James writes:
Great coffee should be fresh, above all it should be local. The lack of relationships between roaster and cafe across the world undoubtedly contributes to the poor quality of coffee. The disconnection of distance significantly impacts the probability of deliciousness…. I would encourage every cafe to work the way most do in Italy – source locally from a roaster you can build a great relationship with.
Coffeeangel’s roaster is Irish – and always has been (insiders please excuse the pun). Our relationship goes back many years and I would like to think that we have grown to be friends. And as friends, we are both very comfortable in complimenting and criticising the work each does. This is a good thing and I believe we continue to grow and improve each other’s businesses by virtue of this. We both accept that we have much to do and learn, but neither of us is disheartened, but rather motivated by the prospect.
I believe I play a key role in the both the selection and roasting process. I cup, blend, comment and challenge everything that is on the table. For my part, I also regularly order coffee from some of the worlds finest roasters to taste and benchmark against what we have on our shelves. And there are times that I am envious / jealous / amazed at the quality of some of the coffees I recieve. But equally, there are many times that I am delighted, because I feel that coffees we are offering are at least equal to some of the coffees supplied by these greats of the global coffee industry. ((This is of course my personal opinion; the only person of any importance is the customer and whether they believe it or not.))
So where am I going with this?
Once again, I feel I must reference the sorry state of the Irish economy. And by the ‘Irish economy’ I really mean the Irish people. I would like to think we have reached rock bottom both financially and mentally – though that remains to be seen. Our global image is a joke. Surely we must now exert control over those areas within our grasp and support each other wherever possible.
And I am by no means implying charity! My own height-of-the-bubble mortgage dictates otherwise. I am talking about the patriotism of survival. I am saying we should be endorsing and supporting quality Irish producers first before casting our eyes and euros further afield.
The only caveat I attach to this call to action is ‘quality’. Seek out quality and do not compromise. Absolutely benchmark Irish producers against the opposition. Qualifiy and quantify quality, price, service, sourcing, freshness, traceability, etc. and whatever else you feel is relevant to you.
I have grown weary and frustrated seeing illuminated signs hanging off the walls of countless well-respected Irish cafes, coffee shops and restaurants implying the sophistication and quality of foreign brand, imported coffees.
I am equally sickened by restaurants waving the Irish flag and preaching provenance with the names of local suppliers on the back of menus, yet have imported coffee running through their machines. This is bullshit and there is no longer any excuse!
Ireland has a multitude of coffee roasters. I assure you some are doing great work and there are others who are working at improving what they offer (as they should and must). And there are some who do not belong in the game – but they really are their own worst enemy and generally easy to spot.
Below is a list of all the Irish roasters (in alphabetical order) that I’m aware of. If there are those whom I’ve omitted, please let me know and I’ll add their names to the list.
I have purposely not named my own wonderful roaster – though he is on the list below – to avoid accusations of this being a veiled advertorial. ((If anyone would like information on my roaster, please contact me directly on here.))
| Roaster | Location |
|---|---|
| Ariosa | Co. Meath |
| Badger & Dodo | Co. Cork |
| Bailie’s Coffee Company | Co. Antrim |
| Bewleys | Co. Dublin |
| Clive McCabe & Co. | Co. Dublin (?) |
| Coffee Beans | Co. Limerick |
| Cork Coffee Roasters | Co. Cork |
| Green Bean Roasters | Co. Louth |
| Java Republic | Co. Dublin |
| Johnsons Coffee | Co. Antrim |
| Mocha Beans | Co. Galway |
| Ponaire | Co. Limerick |
| Ristretto | Co. Down |
| Robert Roberts | Co. Dublin |
If you are using an imported coffee or something you believe is below par, I encourage you to seek out some of these people and at the very least taste what they have to offer. Do not buy into fancy packaging, websites or slick salesmen. Trust your palate and do shop around. If it doesn’t meet with your standards, by all means look elsewhere.
If my experience is worth anything, I would be very suprised if you could not find someone on this list who could provide you with what’s needed to refuel both you and this economy.
Comments
Although I agree with this at face value, I think as always, there’s more to it than that.
We, for example, supply cafes with coffee and supply training but 3FE is 50% Irish owned (me) and 50% British owned (Steve). The coffee is also roasted in the UK. We do however as a company pay taxes in Ireland and employ Irish people. We also someday hope to open a roastery in Dublin, at which point we would still not be considered 100% Irish owned.
Your list contains two roasters (including your own) that are based in Northern Ireland. They contribute no taxes to the Irish Exchequer and employ no people (that I know of) in Ireland. I understand there are complexities in declaring themselves Irish but from an economic perspective they are not. They pay taxes and employ people in the UK, regardless of the political or social stance that those people take.
Now I see your point about buying Irish, but even though our coffee is not roasted in Ireland we are contributing to the economy in a very real sense through taxation and employment.
I also think that companies such as Matthew Algies, Food Solutions (Illy), United Coffee etc. are making a very real contribution to the Irish Economy and generating real value in the market that translates into jobs and tax euros in this country. They are also doing business in a manner that is both professional and capable and growing to the extent that they employ a lot of people in this country, and pay professional wages to industry workers. The impact they have in pushing coffee forward should not be underestimated either.
The buy Irish campaigns are always given an extra push in uncertain economic times and I expect to see more of it in the next few years, but I think its important to look at the actual economic benefit of doing so.
Ultimately it will be taxation and job creation that reignites this country’e economy and I think its dangerous to lose sight of that.
Thanks for the comments Colin. I was very consciousness that this may rankle and possible offend many, however my post was far from directed at you, Steve or 3FE. Truth be told, you may be an exception based on your very specific quality and varietal demands – which I did obliquely allude to.
In would however completely disagree with your comments on roasters from the North. My own roaster, as you pointed out, is based in the North but they have a company that is also registered in the Republic. I pay all monies owed into this Euro account. This company is subject to Irish taxes and thereby contributes directly to the Irish economy and exchequer. He ultimately plans to have a sales team on the ground paying PAYE, etc., but that is really neither here nor there.
I also do take your point on all the other big roasters based outside the ROI. However, by following your logic you are also endorsing the likes Nestle, Kraft and McDonalds who also employ people here in the coffee industry. This is contrary to both my point on locally sourcing quality produce and the freshness debate sparked by the article in The Atlantic. I still firmly believe you should only look outside our borders when you have exhausted all other options and if what is on offer here does not meet your standards.
Given the unique position you have at 3FE and the enviable arrangement you have the lads at Bodytonic (which you yourself have posted about), I would suspect you may be slightly insulated from harsh realities that many local business face.
I do wholeheartedly agree that taxation and job creation are key to this country’s recovery, but what is wrong with starting locally first and building from there?
I stand corrected on the point about Bailies, and their tax dollars are very welcome! In saying that, the fact that they are essentially a distributer for a foreign roaster in this country, further reinforces my point.
Their staus in Ireland is therefore no different (from an economic perspective) than any of the non-Irish roasters your post seems to be aimed at.(3FE included) Until they open a roastery in Ireland and are 100% Irish owned then I’m afraid they’re not falling under the criteria that you’ve set.
Alternatively, you should include 3FE/Illy/Matthew Algies etc. in the list as we all buy from foreign based Roasters and distribute in Ireland on a basis that is subject to Irish Taxes.
I fear we are beginning to lose sight of my original message, which is trying source locally first – given both economic and quality benefits – and only looking elsewhere if you are not satisfied. Based on your comments thus far, I can only assume that on this point you disagree?
We can certainly argue the vagaries of jurisdictional taxation and potentially risk getting into 26 vs 32 county debate (on whether business based in the North should be branded Irish or British) but I feel is neither constructive or relative to my core message.
I do, however, find it confusing and wholly contradictory that you are willing to both host the 2010 Irish Barista Championship, then invite and compete against several baristas from the North. Do you now consider these baristas foreign like my ‘foreign roaster’? Further to that, is the Irish Chapter of the SCAE not open to those based in the North?
I honestly feel that we are digressing here. I can respect that you seek to protect / justify your own commercial decisions, but I stand by my post and do consider my roaster Irish. FWIW, I was born in the North and have always and will continue to consider myself Irish…
Perhaps a more dignified conversation over coffee would be appropriate at this stage.
Karl, I think we are perhaps arguing two different parts of your post. I agree that if quality is not compromised then people should buy locally.
I think the conversation about who can claim to be Irish is a very different one to the one I was trying to discuss i.e. buying Irish to aid economic recovery.
Unfortunately those in the North who consider themselves Irish cannot have any real impact on Irish economic recovery. I wish they could.
I would also say that as far as the SCAE is concerned I had no role in inviting competitors or hosting the event (that was Twisted Pepper and the SCAE, all I did was introduce the parties). In fact, I’m not even a member of the SCAE.
I welcome and continue to welcome baristas from the north to the IBC. The structure of the competition has nothing to do with me however.
Perhaps a cup of coffee is the answer. It usually is.
How did I miss this? Meow I say, meow.
Ideal world – local great, but in reality the vast majority of roasters on that list are shit.
Honesty Dave! C’mon, tell us what you really think???
As acerbic as your comments are, I do think you’ve provided value. Education, points of reference and feedback are frighteningly essential and should apply to roaster, cafe owner and consumer alike. And it’s up to each party to seek that out.
Let’s face it, the vast majority of green coffee on offer to the smaller Irish roasters is from the same handful of brokers. So many are buying similar (if not the same) coffee. It’s what’s being done with that green that separates.
At least in some cases there is room for improvement – which can not be said some of the big brands I’ve referenced.
We have a mobile coffee shop and bakery at Malin Head, Donegal, and whilst we try to embrace the source locally mantra, operating just a few miles from Northern Ireland, it quickly gets confusing. For example, in buying local we take our current Espresso blend from Dublin based Java Republic, but purchased in Sterling through a Northern Distributor. They are a great distributor, but it isn’t ideal for a number of reasons.
Fortunately, we have a shining beacon of the source locally movement close to us in Donal Doherty of Harry’s Bar and Restaurant (Bridgend, Inishowen). His enthusiasm for seeking out the best in local produce is infectious, and his incredibly high standards push local producers to improve. He has certainly inspired us to both improve our offering (as we become a local source of cakes to shops and cafes), and to look harder for local high quality sources before going further afield.
However, we do have to be pragmatic in our purchasing, and sometimes the border has to be a simple matter of administration (VAT, Currency etc) and not a matter of patriotism or principle. For example, despite the abundance of cows in Donegal we cannot find a local Southern supplier of unsalted butter. On the flip side, our business depends very much on tourists and 2nd home visitors from outside Southern Ireland, which means that even with our purchases from the outside Southern Ireland, our balance of payments is still positive into the Republic.
Malin Head is remote, and can feel far removed from the Speciality Coffee world – pulling shots at -15 degC windchill in 55mph gusts feels a million miles away from Penny University. However, the level of commitment shown across Ireland by people like Karl, Colin, and more locally Darren (Ground), and Michael (Clements) is inspiring, and compels us to find ways to improve – even when our extremities are numb with cold.
Thanks for your comments Dominic. I have met Donal on a few occasions and his sincerity, commitment and enthusiasm are truly inspiring. It does sound like your taking a very practical and similar approach. I do wish you well and hopefully we’ll get a chance to meet in the not-to-distant future.
You may feel you are far removed from the world of Speciality Coffee, but that is something a few of us are working a rectifying in the coming year (watch this space).